I need to get off the 50 foot beginner long board and into something a little bit more manageable. I'm not sure when I am supposed to do this, but I think I might decide that its tomorrow.
1) Its really hard to paddle and turn around. It goes like this: "Wow that's an awesome looking wave, just about to curl and looking powerful. I'm going to teef this bad boy out from under all those lame suckas who aren't as hip to the scene as I so clearly am. Ok, paddle, paddle, paddle, almost turned a quarter of the way... wave gone.
2) Its covered in a spongy, grippy material that I am sure that I am happy is there, its just that I have a friction burn on my knees (when I paddle they move back and forth and when I stand, they drag for a second on the way up) and on my top two abdominal muscles (and my lowest two ribs). I had to stop today cuz it was too painful to lay on the board. I think this might be why surfers a) use non spongy boards (this is a secondary benefit to performance me thinks) b) most wear thin shirts (in addition to UV protection) and c) surf shorts go below the knee (maybe? not really sure on that one - anyone? UV again or just style?).
I learned that surfing wave faces is exponentially more difficult (and fun) than surfing white water, crashed soooo 20 seconds ago stuff from surfing v1.0.
[EDITOR'S NOTE: This all started with an effort to do "Random Kind Things for My Body", which is here]
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